The purpose of this document is to provide a fresh look at shooting black powder guns in an outdoor theatrical or reenactment setting – and how to make it safer. A logical analysis of past accidents can give us a new perspective on what elements of shooting are actually the most dangerous, and what sort of equipment and training can be used to avoid these problems.
The focus will be on small arms being discharged in outdoor settings, either as part of a staged display or a battle reenactment. The primary weapon is the matchlock, but much of the discussion also applies to wheel-lock, flintlock and single-shot caplock guns.
I will not attempt to cover all elements of shooting safety, Rules of Engagement (ROE), marching and shooting drill, recommendations for equipment and supplies, etc. -- these are covered in other documents. See http://www.luckhardt.com/ecwsa109.html and http://www.syler.com/drillDemo/menu.html . Instead I will limit discussion to a careful and unbiased analysis of accidents and how to avoid them.
The author has had over 15 years of extensive experience shooting matchlock muskets at the Northern California Renaissance Faires, at other Ren Faires and Celtic / Scots Festivals in California, and at English Civil War events on the US East Coast and in the UK and Netherlands. IÕve also shot caplock pistols at Dickens Fairs and Pirate Festivals, as well as small artillery at various events. I used to teach 4H shotgun Hunter Safety classes, and have shot live ball from various modern and black powder small arms and small artillery at rifle ranges.
Since the mid 90Õs IÕve been a current member of the largest military reenactment group in Europe, the Sealed Knot Society, and after experiencing two active seasons while living in the UK, I now attend events over there every few years. IÕm also active with the English Civil War Society of America, the Renaissance Military Society, and other similar groups.
Types of Black Powder Accidents at events –
Most common:
Less common but more dangerous:
Extremely dangerous:
The four ignition elements in shooting displays:
á Primary ignition source – match, flint, cap
á Residual hot coal in pan or barrel
á Airborne sparks
á Static electricity
Accident Types – from most common to most dangerous:
Hang fires are probably the most common type of problem, and all matchlock shooters have experienced this issue..
The most common cause of hang fires is the match. Sometimes the match cord is burning too slowly or incompletely and not producing a hot coal, other times burning too hot and causing the coal to fall off in the pan. This can be caused by many complex factors, including the material of the match (cotton, hemp, jute, etc.), the weave of the match (thin braid, thick braid, straight core with exterior braid, etc.),and the type, age and concentration of the accelerant in the match (KNO3 or other chemicals). Hang fires are also caused by incorrect placement of the match in the serpent – either the angle or length of the match being wrong
The match can also be snapped too quickly into the pan and returned, either not allowing enough time to set the pan off, or breaking off the coal and/or extinguishing the match.
How to avoid – Keep the pan clean, and prick (aka clean) the vent frequently – particularly after a hangfire. Carry a screwdriver tool so the pan cover screw can be tightened to avoid losing powder, also a cause of premature firing while trying the match. Keep a selection of match available, so that if one batch starts to have problems you will have a backup supply. Encourage suttlers and your shooters to make extra match and bring it to events. Always wash cotton match to remove sizing and starch before soaking in nitrate solution, and always test match before events to be sure it still burns hot enough. Online resource = Carl's Slow Match Website http://www.metamuseum.com/us/slowmatch/ .
How to avoid – Burns from handling match can be mostly avoided by the use of thin gloves, particularly on the left hand – this practice is very common in the UK. Fencing gauntlets work well, as do thin leather gardening or work gloves. Gloves can be handy for other purposes, like covering the end of the barrel and the lock during rain.
Drifting sparks can be difficult to avoid. If at all possible position the line of muskets so they are shooting downwind, or at least 90 degrees to the wind. Shooting into the wind is the least desirable situation. Muskets with large pans that spit to the right should be placed on the end of the line, and owners of same should be encouraged to use the minimum amount of FFFF primer to get reliable ignition.
Burns from drifting or spitting sparks can be limited by the use of broad-brimmed wool hats, long sleeved leather or wool coats and doublets, and period-look eyewear for those concerned about sparks in the eyes (also required on most rifle ranges). Polyester, cotton gauze, nylon and other flammable materials should not be worn by shooters, and wool garments should contain a little blended artificial material as possible.
How to avoid -- See #2 above. Wide-brimmed wool hats offer a lot of protection for the face and eyes, and period-look eyewear also protects the eyes. Online resource = Jason Townsend & Sons, see Eyewear category http://jas-townsend.com/ .
How to avoid -- See #2 above for issues with artificial fabrics, and note that wool garments should be made from as close to 100% wool as possible – the blended material is often flammable. Long hair is always at risk, but can often be covered up by hats or tucked into doublets or coats, or wetted down just before shooting.
Nearby materials should always be checked to see how flammable they are, and shooting location moved if real danger of burning tents, tarps, or groundcover exists. Remember that some matchlock pans fire a 3-4Õ flame straight up, and IÕve seen shade tarps burned at hot weather events in this way.
Primer flask explosions are one of the more common and yet very dangerous accidents experienced by black powder shooters. Primer and main charge flasks can be very risky to use, as they are the largest concentration of gunpowder on the shooterÕs body.
Recent rules at nearly all rifle ranges require black powder shooters to load the main charge from a measure or paper cartridge, as too many buckskinners were injured when their main charge flasks exploded while pouring powder down the barrel.
We will discuss only primer flask explosions, as nobody should be loading the barrel or pan directly from a main charge flask – these larger flasks should only be used for pouring powder into a measure.
Note the four ignition sources listed above – these are what can set off primer flasks –
á Primary ignition source – match, flint, cap
á Residual hot coal in pan or barrel
á Airborne sparks
á Static electricity
To address the first source, there is always the chance that the shooter will lose his hold on the match and the lit end will swing down to come in contact with the flask top.
The second source probably causes the majority of explosions. Powder can cake up in pan or barrel, and coals can stay hot for surprisingly long periods of time.
Airborne sparks are also a well known cause of flask explosions, whether the sparks come from the shootersÕ own gun, or the match, pan or barrel of nearby guns.
Static electricity is not often regarded as a issue, but several accidents in the UK have shown it to be a real problem. Quite a difference in static charge can build up between a flask hung on a personÕs body, and a metal gun barrel – particularly when the gun is touching a wall or other grounded structure.
How to avoid – First, use the smallest primer flask you can find, and only fill it for the required number of shots, reloading it when you reload your bandolier or cartridge pouch. This is easily the most important thing you can learn from this document!
Second, shoot with gloves. Those shooters who have experienced primer flask explosions can tell you what their hands or gloves looked like afterwards – usually white from the burned powder. The two most recent flask explosions that IÕve seen both resulted in no injuries because the shooters had small flasks with minimal amounts of powder, and both were wearing gloves.
To avoid airborne sparks, make sure the flask spout has a spring closure that works, and dump all primer from the flask either into the pan or onto the ground – donÕt leave any to fill the spout. Hanging the flask back on your body also reduces the chance that sparks or the hot end of the match can come in contact with the spout.
Static charges can be dissipated by touching the gun barrel with your hand and/or the tip of the primer flask before starting to pour the powder out. This is particularly important with artillery. Avoid having the primer flask rub constantly against leather or wool garments while marching if possible.
My theory is that the safest priming flask is the smallest one with the least amount of metal and potential compression, with leather flasks heading the list. Use a standard primer flask spring-spout, then make a sewn leather body for it. All-wooden primer flasks were issued on bandoliers in the 17th Century, and are still available from Sykes and other sources.
Alternately, use the smallest metal flask you can find, and only fill it for the required number of shots. The Baby Flask has a two-piece soldered metal body and is commonly used for black powder pistol priming. Small flasks can be strung on a cord by twisting wire through the spout-cap screw-holes, or stitching a leather cover over body.
Some primer flasks are built with blow-out plugs in the bottom, although not always available commercially. These can also be made at home, with a commercial flask top attached to a wood or metal tube with a cork bottom plug.
Most authentic are the larger triangular wooden priming flasks with metal trim, nails, and metal spouts. But if they blow up, the metal, fasteners and hardwood makes great shrapnelÉ
Online resource = Sykes Suttlery http://sykesutler.home.att.net/musket2.htm , who is also good for match and bandoliers of flasks. For small metal flasks try Dixie Gunworks or Cabelas.
Most beginning matchlock shooters have a lot of trouble controlling the muzzle of their gun while shooting, mostly due to paying too much attention to the match and lock. This commonly results in the barrel of the gun being pointed too low, and often directly at shooters next to or in front of them.
I have seen an actor shot point-blank in the face with a cap and ball revolver at Dickens Fair, luckily he only suffered some powder burns on the face and had to have powder grains washed out of his eyes. This happened because an untrained shooter was pressed into the routine at the last minute, and she was unaware of how much the Colt and Remington revolvers kick up when fired – so the shot aimed at the vest went into the face.
A recent example of good barrel control was shown at the 2008 Actions of the Low Countries event in Northern California. A musketeer in the front rank was preparing to fire as part of a volley, when his match swung loose from the serpent and ignited one of the powder flasks on his bandolier (aka ÒapostleÓ).
Even after the flask contents ignited, shooting sparks all around and setting parts of his garments on fire, he kept his musket at 45 degrees. As the line officer rushed up from behind to put out the smoldering wool doublet, his musket discharged about 5 seconds after the flask – probably due to flying sparks or a residual coal in the pan. Had he dropped his gun, or lowered the barrel and swung about in the ranks, the gun could have gone off in the face of a fellow reenactor.
How to avoid – Barrel control is a critical element of proper training, as it also comes into effect during musket drill, particularly while loading, cocking & trying the match, and while marching with loaded muskets. No matter how distracting the rest of the drill and event are, or what problems the match may be causing, keeping the barrel pointed up at approximately 45 degrees from horizontal is essential.
Officers and trainers shouldnÕt be afraid to sound out when they see a gun barrel in an incorrect position – I prefer shouting ÒBarrels UP!Ó as it reminds everyone of the correct position. And new shooters should be constantly reminded that the position of the end of the gun is as important, or more so, than that finicky, fussy matchlock mechanism.
I have never read about or heard of a full bandolier (all or most of the bottles) exploding in modern reenacting. Historical accounts describe this terrible accident, as well as various examples of pockets or hats full of powder exploding.
In 2007 a Boston reenactorÕs cartridge bag exploded, probably from flying sparks getting past the flap. This was during the firing of multiple shots as a salute, and luckily the man wasnÕt fatally burned. But it made the papers and generated quite a bit of discussion in black powder circles. http://www.reenactor.net/forums/index.php?topic=345.msg1016
How to avoid –Bandoliers of flasks should be purchased from a commercial maker if possible, as experimenting or building your own is best left to professional woodworkers and craftsmen.
Bandolier flask tops (either wood or cast metal) should be sized correctly so that they can be pulled loose with one hand for use, but can be easily closed after use. Well-made flasks will often close while the musketeer is moving or marching, sliding down the cords back onto the flask body. Cords should be replaced when worn.
Leather makes the best non-flammable cartridge bags or pouches. Flaps should cover the opening completely, and although easy to open with one hand, the flap should drop back closed once the shooterÕs hand is withdrawn from the bag or pouch. Carry the minimum number of cartridges, and clean out any spilled powder before use.
Ramrods, ramrod ends, and cleaning brushes or tools are the most common projectiles that are accidentally fired at muzzle-loading reenactments. A ramrod was fired from a matchlock at Southern CA Renfaire years ago during rapid fire drill across the pond, and supposedly struck a customer and injured an arm.
The unfortunately too common accidents with cap and ball revolvers firing actual overlooked bullets at ACW events are not something most matchlock shooters need to be concerned with.
Wadding is another common problem, although rarely used in US reenactments except for pistols. Wadding should always be thin and combustible, so that most or all of the wadding is burned up before it can hit the ground or land on someoneÕs garments or eyes.
Artillery can have problems with leftover aluminum foil from cartridges being fired as projectiles, particularly if the piece is not completely wormed out after each shot.
How to avoid – Ramrods should be used with great care, when they are used at all during matchlock drill. And they should never be used during battle reenactments, even though their use is common in European events. Any drill involving use of ramrods should be slow enough, and closely watched by the officers, so that forgetting the ramrod in the barrel becomes impossible. The English matchlock drill has added a modern step to the drill just before firing – the officer shouts, ÒCheck your Scouring Sticks!Ó All shooters respond ÒAYE!Ó after touching the ramrod to confirm it is in place in the stock.
The English reenactors do not allow metal caps or tool-base mounts on ramrods used at their events – ever. They have had too many experiences with the metal end coming off during loading, then being fired out of the gun as a projectile. So part of any gun inspection should be the business end of the ramrod – if they are to be used, any metal ends must be tightly attached, and no cracks or flaws in the wood should be allowed.
Foil cartridges should be made as thin as is safe, and the twisted ends trimmed with a knife before use to minimize leftover metal in the barrel. And artillery should be wormed well with visual confirmation that the breech end of the foil cartridge has been extracted.
This is another accident that IÕve never heard about happening in modern reenactment, but centuries of fatal accidents at places like mining sites, artillery parks and military camps have resulted in a lot of procedures and standards that are known to be effective.
The laws regarding powder magazines at theatrical events and reenactments are confused, unclear, and subject to change by the official doing the inspection. A combination of Federal, State and local ordinances can confuse the most careful event planner, and many officials are unwilling to Òofficially approveÓ storage of explosives in public places.
http://www.atf.gov/pub/fire-explo_pub/xcomplete.htm
How to avoid – The Washington State specs are a good source for building a Type III Magazine (aka ÒDay boxÓ) http://apps.leg.wa.gov/WAC/default.aspx?cite=296-52-70065 A Day Box is fire, weather, and theft resistant, made of metal and lined with wood, marked as containing explosives, and kept locked.
Magazines used at fireworks shows use heavy canvas draped over them to eliminate the chance of live sparks drifting into the box. Other than small storage boxes used for artillery cartridges, none of our magazines should ever be within reach of any sparks – they should be kept safely on the sidelines or backstage.
Shooters should bring the minimum amount of powder to events, as the total can quickly exceed legal limits for the site. If Fire Marshals are fussy about how many pounds of powder are being stored, shooters should leave their gunpowder offsite (NOT in a car) and bring it onsite only when needed. Purchasing a larger-capacity commercial magazine may cause more problems than it solves, as it implies storage and use of large amounts of explosives.
The English reenactors use wadding for every shot, as this extends the Òbang for the buckÓ they get from the limited amount of Black Powder issued to each shooter. For muskets the wadding is bits of toilet paper, sometimes moistened in the mouth before use.
During the 1980Õs, wadding used in a battle reenactment at Whitney in central England caused a large fire which swept across several stubble fields and burned many spectatorÕs parked cars. They still use wadding, but are a bit more careful about hot and dry conditions, as well as tall dry grass.
How to avoid –In high fire danger conditions, shooting should be cancelled. This may seem harsh, but during extreme conditions when the State issues alerts, fines of up to $10,000 can be issued for any calls that result in fire engines coming to the event.
Wadding should be carefully inspected for pistols, and their use curtailed if it puts the entire event at risk. Thin disks of florists foam work best, but must be carefully rammed to avoid breaking the seal and losing powder. Cardboard disks and other non-standard wadding should be avoided at all times, but particularly during dry conditions.
Matchlocks: Learning and Loaning –
I see two very different types of shooters at events – those who own their own guns, and those who used borrowed muskets, often being loaned different guns even at the same weekend event.
Matchlock firing mechanisms are usually quite different from each other and can be difficult to learn. Different serpent lengths, angles and jaw types; plus different pan sizes and covers are combined with differing match thicknesses, weaves, and burn rates. These result in a steep learning curve, and when the learning takes place during shooting displays, the combination can be extremely dangerous.
These challenging elements mean that even the gun owners can have issues dealing with new batches of match or damp shooting conditions. And even experienced matchlock musketeers can have real problems when handed a new gun, match, bandolier and primer flask.
So great care and additional training are required when even experienced shooters are using borrowed guns, match and equipment. And once someone has learned the quirks of a particular gun, it is best if they can continue to shoot it for the duration of the event.
Other online Black Powder Safety resources –
http://www.usnlp.org/safety.html
http://hmeuc.com/pdf/safety.pdf
http://www.charlestownmilitia.org/our_black_powder_rules